Stephen Tanzer’sJanuary/February 2006
International Wine Cellar
New Releases from California
Kalin Cellars.1996 Semillon Livermore Valley ($25; blended with 20% Sauvignon Blanc): Full bright gold. Fresh, slightly high-toned aromas of orange, apricot, oatmeal, hazelnut; notes of resiny eucalyptus and bay leaf emerged with aeration. At once penetrating and dense, with strong flavors of apricot and nut oil framed by strong but integrated acidity. As bracing as this is, it's ultimately creamy in the middle. This needs further aging, or a good bit of aeration, to reveal its inherent complexity, but there's a core of fruit like steel here. Finishes with sneaky length. I found myself raising my score each time I went back to the glass. 92(+).