Focus on California’s North Coast

Kalin Cellars. 1997 Semillon Livermore Valley ($25): Medium yellow. Aromas of stone fruits, orange, baked bread, minerals and ginger, along with a lightly yeasty quality. Penetrating and firm but not hard, with lemon and mineral flavors dominating. At the outset the wine's structure dominated its underlying flesh, but this showed increasing complexity and silkiness with extended aeration. Yes, this is a current release from the unhurried Terry Leighton. I'd love to serve this blind next to a bottle of Laville Haut-Brion. 93.

1997 Pinot Noir Cuvée DD Sonoma County ($48): Medium red with an orange rim. Cherry, strawberry, minerals, clove, spices and underbrush on the captivating, slightly decadent nose. At once firm and exotic, with strong acidity framing the flavors of red fruits, orange peel and minerals. This has a distinctly dry edge and finishes with dusty tannins but there's also lovely aromatic persistence. With its terrific cut, this idiosyncratic pinot calls out for food. Try it with a spicy Chinese duck dish. 91.