Stephen Tanzer

International Wine Cellar

November/December 1996

Focus on California

Kalin Cellars

1992 Sauvignon Blanc Potter Valley Reserve ($21): Smoke, buttery, creamed corn, minerals and oak spice on the nose, plus resin and fig notes that suggest slight oxidation (not to mention a percentage of Semillon). Initially large-scaled and smooth in the mouth, with strong extract and rather exotic flavors, this wine showed powerful acidity after just ten minutes in the glass. The finish really stains the palate. A bit like one of the big-three white Graves, but with much less oak influence. A fascinating wine that’s tricky to assess today 90?. 1991 Chardonnay Cuvée LD Sonoma County ($32): Wild aromas of truffle, mango and orange peel. Hugely ripe in the mouth, with pronounced mango and papaya notes and a creamy vanilla oil flavor. Manages to be minerally and tropical at the same time. A massive, almost vendange tardive-like wine that wears its alcohol gracefully. Explosively ripe finishing fruit. In the Spring of '95 Terry Leighton told me that his '91s were tightly structured and high in acidity, and that the '92s had the palate-impact of late-harvest wines. Based on that description, I would have picked this wine for a '92. 92. 1992 Chardonnay Cuvée DD Sonoma County ($32): Tangy orange peel and spice aromas, with a leesy complexity. Concentrated and strong in extract, but not unctuous or exotic like the above. Perfumed orange zest and acacia blossom in the mouth. Very long, spicy, fresh finish cleanses the palate. This shows the structure and juicy acidity of a late-harvest riesling. 92.

For More Information Contact:

Telephone

415 883-3543

FAX

925 283-2909

Postal address

Suite F

        61 Galli Drive

Novato, California 94949

Electronic mail

Ask Dr. Fermento:tjl@ix.netcom.com

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Last modified: October 10, 2009