Stephen Tanzer

International Wine Cellar

May/June 1998

Focus on California

Kalin Cellars

1991 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sonoma County ($59): Dark red color. Flamboyant, fascinating aromas of tar, rose petal, bitter cherry, cranberry. Toast, licorice, cedar and tobacco: first I thought Vega Sicilia, then mature Rioja, then Nebbiolo. Spicy, bright and intensely flavored; red berry and licorice flavors are complicated by exotic notes of coconut and pipe tobacco. Slight suggestion of surmaturité. Tongue-dusting tannins are buried in fruit. Finishing notes of caraway and dill seed merely add interest to this outrageous Cabernet. With extended aeration, this showed a strong Graves character and amazingly oxidation-resistant fruit. 93.

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Last modified: October 10, 2009